Kate Middleton's Wedding Makeup: should brides copy it? Pro makeup artist answer might surprise

The do's and don'ts of Kate Middleton's wedding makeup 

We've been watching her for a while. And we've seen the eyeliner coming through the door before the rest of her, so I don't know why I was surprised to be greeted with the same eyeliner overkill on Kate Middleton's wedding day. Maybe it's because I was expecting an upgrade from what she does everyday with her own moderate talents in that department. Because the royal wedding dress was so classic I was hoping that the makeup would live up to the classicism of the dress and be timeless and forgiving to the camera. But even more, I was praying that the "day after" makeup reviews wouldn't steer a nation to repeat the same errors for their own big occasions. But alas, I've seen so many media outlets and videos singing the virtues of a look gone awry. So I'd like to offer brides tips for taking the best of the new Royal's bridal beauty and knowing how to adapt the look to make it work for a wedding day image that will stand the test of time.

Skin
What not to do: don't use a moisturizing foundation that will slide off or start to shine early in the event. Don't miss the nose when you powder your face; the nose is the most "stand out" part of the face and if there is any shine, it will bounce off every light and camera lens.
What to do: wear a water-based, water-resistant foundation that looks like REAL skin. I like MAC's Face and Body. Also use a sheer powder that will combat shine but not add bulk to the texture of the skin, adding extra attention to the nose. MAC's blot powder is a favourite.

Cheeks
What not to do: don't use bronzer on the apples of the cheeks. Cheeks are meant to be flushed the way they get when you exercise a little. And don't contour the hollows of the cheeks with bronzer. Contours of the face are to be accentuated with real "shade" tones like taupes, not orange.
What to do: use a pinky/peach shade that is bright enough to create contrast to your skin tone so it gives your face life. Two favourite blushes are Orgasm and Desire, by Nars Cosmetics. (Kate got this right).

Lips:
What not to do: though the pale "J-Lo" lip is long revered by fashion folks, it only looks good in fashion editorials or on a great golden tan. So make sure the lips aren't too beige. Your whole face will be washed out when paired with a white or ivory dress. (Kate was too smart to make this mistake)
What to do: find a bright toned-down pink (not too bubble-gum), that is close to the shade of your natural lip colour. I like MAC's Brave lipstick for brides, followed by a pop of highlighting shine in the center of the lip using MAC's Oyster Girl Tinted Lipglass.

Eye Shadow:
What not to do: don't take a dark charcoal shadow and run it over the entire lid right to the tearduct by the nose.
What to do: start with a champaign or flesh tone shade to match the real skin and brighten the first 1/3 of the lid closest to the nose. This opens up the eye and keeps it looking larger. A nice universal shadow for this is Naked Lunch by MAC. Then whisk a medium-toned charcoal across the rest of the lid. Try MAC Print Shadow; blend the grey just above the crease and fade it out using a clean brush. You can finish with a light whisk of your blush above the crease to tie the colours of the face into the eye.

Eyeliner-upper eye
What not to do: don't draw an even thickness black line all the way across the upper eye as far as it will go closest to the nose. And don't leave a sharp line where you can really see it's edges
What to do: run the liner across ONLY the outer 2/3 of the lid, making it thicker on the outside of the eyelid, tapering down to a thin, barely-there line stopping where the light eyeshadow begins on the eye. At this point you'll be aiming for the lashline only and not the lid. Afterwards, take a small fine-tipped makeup brush or Q-tip and smudge the line to soften its edges. Then set it with a soft black eyeshadow to last and further blur the harsh edges.

Lower lash line:
What not to do:
I hope you are listening here Kate! Don't draw the eyeliner as thick and dark as the liner on the top of the eyelid and don't run it across the entire lower lash line right up around the tearduct.
What to do: if you are using a black liner on the upper eyelid, use a charcoal liner on the lower lash line (you want the weight of the eyeliner to be on top, not at the bottom of the eye). Start thicker on the outside corner of the eye, thinning it out as you go and STOP the line half way across the eye. This is where the eye is at its widest open position if you look at a vertical line running through the center of the eye. Then use a fine brush or Q-tip to smudge the whole line and softly fade out the spot where it ends in the center to drag it toward the tearduct. Because you'll end the line leaving 1/3 of the lower lash line without liner closer to the inside corner of the eye, you want to finish that area with a nice highlighting flesh tone similar to the colour on the upper eye, such as Naked Lunch. Also finish the little corner of the tearduct with a really bright pop of shimmer to bounce light and open up the eye even further. I like MAC's Phloof shadow.

Under the brow:
What not to do: don't highlight under the brow with a "white frost" shadow; it's way too noticeable and on a prominent part of the face which will bounce off camera flashes looking too overexposed.
What to do: just as Kate did, use soft beige satin or a slight shimmer textured shadow (not frost) to apply a sheer highlight. I like MAC Shroom shadow. For Darker skin tones, try MAC Rice Paper.

While we always turn to fashion icons for direction on our own beauty, we also have to recognize their shortcomings and certainly in a case where a prominent public figure elects to not hire a pro for a momentous occasion, understand how to break down that choice into what worked and what didn't before we turn ourselves into copycat brides.

Colette is a pro makeup artist serving Toronto, Canada and surrounding area. When not doing fashion, commercial or TV work, she has so much fun with brides and claims to have learned as much from them about beauty as she has taught them along the way.

Makeup left by Colette Cormier

www.facemaker.ca